Waka Waka

I just landed in Munich but had some interesting dreams on the flight. In one, I was driving a van full of TLs but was too tired to actually turn the wheel. We almost crashed into a tree and I shouted 'oh my god!' That’s when I woke up and realized I’d also woken up the people around me. Aparently the shouting was not just in my dream.

So, I almost feel a little bit guilty about the utter neglect that has been my blog. I should also note that on this strange German kezboard, the z button is where the y should be. I’m just going to go with it. Don’t mind the tzpos!

I departed JFK on November 29th and got to Frankfurt early the next morning. 8.5 hour layover! Rather than waste a day in the airport, I opted to take the train into the city for a few hours of exploration. Highlights included

• Occupy Frankfurt- I didn’t realize it was a global movement, but I guess I’d been living in the American bubble
• American Peepshow- happening place in what I assumed to be the local red light district. I put in an application in case my more reputable job falls through.
• Christmas stands - Oh my sweet Weinerschnitzel.... enough said I believe
• McDonalds- I can’t believe I stooped so low on my first day of travel but the McCafe is no joke and I needed some serious caffeine.

Another red-eye flight stood between me and Jo’burg. It was smooth sailing with some entertaining movies and delicious meals to help me pass the hours. From the airport I took the brand new Gautrain to a shopping center near Mibb’s house where she picked me up. It was cool to meet the girl who I’d heard so much about over the past few years. I spent the next 4 days with the Marsh family at their house outside of the city. They helped me get on my feet and figure out some sort of plan for the rest of the trip.

Miss Ashley Hodge graced us with her presence over the weekend. She's been living in the bush chasing jackles for a better part of the year. She showed up in a ghetto little truck (bucky) that is reminiscent of something that Fred Flinstone would have driven. We visited the Lion Park where we got to play with lion clubs. They were actually more like teenagers and I think they would have been quite capable of tearing my arm off if they decided it would please them. Luckily, I still have all my limbs and some great photos too. We also went to a market where Mibbs's brother Les sells his artwork.

The Baz Bus turned out to be the answer to any questions I may have had. This tourist based bus system travels from Jo’burg to Cape Town stopping at loads of hostels along the way. I literally spent two weeks jumping on and off wherever my heart desired. It was quite refreshing to have nobody to answer to and no plans to make.

In the Northern Drakensburg I layed low at the hostel, but the place was incredible. There was a swimming pool, hot tub, sauna, bar... the whole 9. This is where I met a number of fellow travelers who I wound up seeing off and on over the next few weeks.

Umtentweni was the home of an intimate little hostel that seemed to attract some strange characters. There was a little Brazilian guy who barely spoke English but didn’t stop talking. He thought everything I said was "reallly really really awesome." There was also a big feminine guy who sold crystals at a local market and gave me a lesson on the meaning of life.

Coffee Bay. There is so much I could say about this place, but in the end it's a place that has to be experienced. It was like a Mecca for backpackers but somehow maintained its small town charm. The Coffee Shack was an ideal base to experience the area from. Guided hikes through the mountains and villages, afternoons at the beach, and surf lessons were sandwiched between nights of good food and abundant drinks at the hostel.

On one of my lazier days, I decided to hit the beach with Cam, an Aussie who I'd met at the first hostel and had been generally on the same route since. We must have smelled like kibbles and bits because two of the local dogs decided to tag along with us. One of them we named Hermes (or H-dog/ H-dizzle when I had my way). He became our guard dog of sorts, chasing down men, children or other dogs he deemed threatening, sitting by our belongings and leading us to our destinations.

In the late afternoon while sitting on the beach a group of kids started sneaking up close to us then running away when I looked at them. After about ten minutes of this, one of the more daring kids came up and sat in front of me. We started talking and before I knew it I was surrounded by about 8 little girls. Somehow Cam managed to stay clear of the group. I got a lesson in Xosa, the language of the local tribes. It's quite unique because they have 3 clicking sounds which are pretty difficult to pronounce if you're a newbee. Eventually one of the girls touched my hair and the rest of them looked shocked. I told them it was ok if they wanted to touch my hair and before I could blink they had surrounded me, pulled out my ponytail, and started to braid three big chunks of hair. It was hard to hide the grimace on my face as they nearly pulled my scalp off my head but in the end I had a stylish new do (that I took out at soon as they were out of sight).

It was a sad day when my time at Coffee Bay was finished but there were a few more places that I wanted to visit. Wild Spirit Hostel in The Crags turned out to be a tonic for the soul. Situated high in the mountains yet remarkably near some of the most beautiful beaches in the country this hostel is a peaceful refuge from the party/ tourist atmosphere which seemed inescapable along the coastal route. A big log cabin full of different instruments, yoga room, recycle center, gardens, horses and waterfalls were all scattered around the property. I joined a few other people on a 12k hike to the beach. We passed a troop of curious baboons in the forest, climbed along steep rock faces and along a river. It was spectacular. Another success story in beautiful South Africa. Next on the agenda was Cape Town which is now one of my favorite cities in the world. As my fingers grow tired, I'll have to leave those stories for another day.